A Tip Of The Hat From Golf Travel Writer Michael Cunningham Goes To The Carnoustie Golf Links In Scotland Who Will Play Host To The 147th Open Championship This Summer - Image Credit Michael Cunningham
By Michael Cunningham
What a day it was when I received an invitation from Carnoustie Country to be a member of a small group of journalists to experience the preparation for this year’s 147th Open.
My trip would be less than 96 hours but how can one resist an opportunity to experience an area of Scotland, 40 minutes north of St. Andrews that boasts 34 stunning courses and 450 years of golf history?
Now to start packing, as my trip was less than 10 days away. Let’s check the average April weather and pack accordingly. Online, I note that the weather in April is similar to the North American city of Craig, Alaska.
In go the long johns and turtleneck. The chance of rain averages 25% throughout the month. In goes my rain gear and extra shoes. But the opportunity, however, of sun is ever increasing so, with positivity always my persona, a pair of shorts and sunscreen enter my kit.
Travelling in Canada, in April, the weather can be just as unpredictable. Arriving in Toronto for my KLM connection thru Amsterdam to Edinburgh, a late season ice storm causes havoc at Pearson Airport. A late takeoff, a missed connection in Amsterdam and then waiting for four hours on standby, I finally arrive at Murryshall House Hotel, an hours drive from Edinburgh.
I take a moment before checking in to introduce myself to the club professional since the five other writers, from Great Britain and Northern Ireland, have already teed off. It is a crisp, deep blue-sky sort of day and buds on the trees were just beginning to appear.
Camera in hand I walk a few holes of the parkland style Murrayshall golf course to stretch my legs and get some uplifting oxygen following my 27-hour journey. I then meet up with the other writers, introduced myself and join them for a few holes – it feels good to swing a club after a long hiatus. Jet lagged, I leave my newfound compatriots after just missing my birdie putt on the 177-yard, downhill par 3, eighth.
The Murrayshall House Hotel In Perthshire, Scotland Features Two 18-Hole Courses
This 40-bedroom four-star hotel, overlooking the rolling terrain of Perthshire countryside, has an appearance of a grand mansion from the era of the Vanderbilts. At the top of the stairs is Room No. 2, my oasis for rest. A suite of royal grandeur it is beautifully appointed and a modern shower to wash away the residue of my long distance travel.
The hotel features two, 18-hole courses; the par 73, Murrayshall Golf Course, is home to the Scottish Championships. Formations of deciduous trees taper many fairways with abundant bunkering requiring accuracy. Though I did not have the opportunity to play the 5,631 Lynedoch, it too is considered a fine test and both should be played when staying here.
An early start, the weather has been cooperating, no rain with a moderate temperature under cloudy skies. We are off to the foothills of the Angus Glens for a tour of Edzell Golf Club. Located halfway between Dundee and Aberdeen this heathland course has been in existence since 1895. Redesigned in 2015, head professional Alistair Webster, one of Scotland’s finest players; in the thickest of Scottish brogue revealed that Edzell is now one of the area’s most popular courses.
Our tour by the Club Captain ends at 11 a.m. and how perfect that less than a 9-iron from the clubhouse is the historic Glenesk Hotel. Husband and wife Dylan and Alena Wren have been renovating this grand home and conference centre and it now boasts a four-star rating.
The '360 Bar' In The Glenesk Hotel
We didn’t go there just to see the beautifully appointed rooms it was also because of their recognition by the Guinness Book of World Records that the ‘360 Bar’ is home to ‘the largest collection of commercially available whiskeys in the world’. Boasting over 1,000 malts, 200 gins and 100 rums in a room the size of most local pro shops, we enjoyed a tasting of five distinct single malts from the area’s distilleries.
We are now off to Royal Montrose. Founded in 1810 it is oft reputed to be the ninth oldest course in the world and the third oldest Royal Club. As we arrive the weather begins to change with wind off the North Sea, driving rain and much cooler temperatures. I count my sagacity for porting my foul weather gear.
Bundled up, yet ready to play, thanks to the lasting effects of my recent whisky tasting, I pick my line on the windswept first hole, a 391-yard par-four named Scurdy. Unsure of the origin of the name, research noted that ‘Scurdy Kat’ is defined as ‘to be scared of tornadoes and thunderstorms’.
By the time I reach ‘Jubilee’ the par-4, 444-yard ninth hole, the sun is shining, though the winds still continue to gust to 40kmh. Driver, then 3-wood and I am still 100 yards short but still make my par.
The weather is improving on my second day of golf and we are off to the Village of Barry to play the Panmure Golf Club founded in 1845.The clubhouse was designed to imitate India’s Royal Calcutta Golf Club.
This links course is often overlooked as a place to play by North Americans who visit Carnoustie, a kilometre from the sea. The middle 12 holes are classic links. Panmure is where Ben Hogan, in his only British Open appearance in 1953, prepared himself to win at Carnoustie.
So disciplined was he in his practice he requested to have a bunker added on the 414-yard par 4 6th to resemble those found at Carnoustie. Now christened the ‘Hogan Hole’ this small pot bunker, on the right, leading edge of the green, captures many an errant shot. He also appealed to have the surface cut on the par-4, 17th’ ‘Old Road’ to replicate the speed of the Carnoustie greens. The greenskeepers provided the mower – Hogan cut the grass.
The Hogan Bunker At Carnoustie Golf Links
We now head to Carnoustie for my final day. Travelling through the Angus Glens we take a moment to have a tasting at a boutique gin distiller, Gin Bothy, once a blacksmith shop this small cottage now creates award-winning fruit instilled gins.
On my final evening before departing back to Canada, I check into the Carnoustie Hotel and my room has a perfect view of the closing hole.
I wake up to a perfect weather day. We have breakfast with Craig Boath, Head Greenkeeper, followed by a tour of the course’s new multi million-dollar golf centre, which opened in April. The Links House is impressive with a well appointed Pro Shop and Rookery Bar and Restaurant that overlooks the opening hole.
I am invited to be the first to experience one of seven state-of-the-art golf simulators. With weather conditions set as ‘heavy rain and driving wind’, in front of 20 ‘spectators’ my 3-iron shot goes straight down the fairway — the only member of our group that stayed in bounds. What a thrill!
Now, Carnoustie for real! We are invited to play the 18th. As the spectator stands are already in place I imagine I am playing in the final foursome. Standing on the tee of this celebrated par-4, 444-yard hole my drive finds the fairway as I advance towards my ball I raise my cap to the imaginary throngs of spectators.
The ‘Tip of the Hat’ is really for the people and places that I have been most fortunate to meet on this memorable visit. My short stay in Scotland’s Carnoustie Country was a compendium of history and whisky, seaside links and heathland golf, fellowship and gin; rain, wind and sunshine. I can hardly wait to return.
About the Author
Michael Cunningham is a former producer and host for the show GolfRadio, a syndicated program that focused on the business of the game and unique travel destinations. He has interviewed visionaries and personalities from around the globe and shared these experiences with many respected publications. Michael is the editor and senior writer of two bestselling books: Spectacular Golf of Western Canada and Spectacular Golf Ontario. A regular contributor for ProShop Magazine/Golf Industry Network, NBC’s Golf Channel Golf Now as well as the European based National Club Golfer’s, Winter Escapes, Go Golfing publications and Great Golf Magazine.