Golf in Ireland (Part 1)
- Details
- Category: Inside Golf
- Published: 2018-05-21
It's A Humble Entryway From The Slieve Donnard Resort And Spa, But Don't Let That Fool You. The Golf On The Other Side Of The Gate Is Absolutely Amazing. (Photo/Gord Montgomery)
NORTH IRELAND (Gord Montgomery/iG) — It’s surprising how different the game of golf is in other parts of the world. Take Northern Ireland for example. Sure the game is the same in that you still have to get the ball from Point A to Point B, and then into that tiny little hole in the ground. But at the same time, the routing to the finish line, especially in the links style of the game, is so convoluted in spots that you wonder how the game you know is even related to this style.
Yes, links golf is a unique challenge. Here, shots three feet off the ground stand a somewhat better chance of getting where you want quicker than those big, magnificently high shots common in North America. It’s not uncommon to see someone pull their putter out for a shot from 80 yards off the green, and all your wedges, save the sand one, are at best extra luggage.
Also, don’t go traipsing off to this golfing wonderland expecting to see well manicured lawns and pretty flowers. Don’t expect beautiful, towering trees or short rough alongside pristine fairways. Or for that matter, even great sunny weather. No, what you’re in for in Ireland is what the true golf game is all about — tangly, club-snagging rough; bunkers deep enough to require a safety harness in order to get in, and out; very few, if any, trees; and fairways with a different feel to them than the lush lawns we’re used to in North America.
One of the things you learn here, and learn quickly, is that range finders are a rather mute subject. After all, given the somewhat divot-resistance of the turf especially with wedge shots and the small, firm greens, exact yardages are at best a guesstimate. What you need here, more than anything, is a good short game comprised of all manner of bump-and-run shots. Those also help when the wind is gusting in off the water. Remember, these are fairways you can stroke a putt down for 50 or 60 yards before ever getting to the actual putting surface but which are difficult to lob a wedge into the green from.
And oh yeah. Don’t forget about the famous Irish weather. Above all else, make sure you’re ready for the elements. It’s windy. It’s wet. And it’s wild. But that, simply, is what golf in the Emerald Isle is all about After all, you’re about to be surrounded by historic golf courses that both embrace you with their wide open vistas and then rebuff you with their huge, intimidating bunker complexes and gorse thick enough to lose a sheep in for a month at a time.
Simply put, this beatific spot in the golf kingdom is second to none and the challenges the courses present are ones you’ll store away forever.
When you consider many of the top-rated layouts in Ireland were designed in the late 1800s, with horse and plough, these works are simply amazing. They’re carved out of the land in a way where the ground is the master of its own domain. What Mother Earth gave the architects, they took and those suggestions have more than stood the test of time.
Annesley Links
With over 300 courses across Ireland, you must note that not all the good courses come up in conversations, for whatever reason. One track that’s a true delight is Annesley Links, the little sister to a big name, Royal County Down. That being said, the ‘tiny’ tyke more than holds her own on the wind-swept sand dunes in Newcastle, Northern Ireland. While playing to only 4,594 yards from the Medal Tees, Annesley Links plays second fiddle to no one, even the larger, more infamous Championship Links right beside it.
While It's Not An Overly Long 18 Holes Of Golf, The Annesley Links At The Royal County Down Golf Club Was A Great Way To Avoid Jet Lag And To Get An Immediate Taste Of Links Golf. (Photo/Gord Montgomery)
We used Annesley as a warm-up to more than anything avoid jet lag by hitting the hay upon arrival in Ireland. What we got was a great wake-up call. Despite the descriptor “Wee Links” used by locals this loop illustrates what awaits you down the line. The longest hole here is a mere 400 yards, yet given the wind and the terrain, it can seem like 4,000 yards if you go even a little offline.
While a newer offering than the Championship Links, Annesley sits among the same great visuals. The intimidating sand dunes, said to be over 5,000 years old, bring on calf-burning agony the next day should you need to wander into them after a wayward volley. The Murlough Nature Reserve provides the stunning, dune-covered landscape and this little beauty is a great way to kick off what’s most certainly a memorable journey.
Royal County Down Golf Club
Founded in 1888 as a 9-hole venue, this well known layout has the touches of the famed Old Tom Morris upon it. He was invited over from Scotland to advise on the construction of the second nine and it, as well as the front half, live up to what one expects to find in true links golf. The turf is firm and rolling, the bunkers are small, but deep and devious, and the greens are large with undulation that test the mettle of the very best short-stick men in the world.
This stretch of grass, heather and gorse is set off by an astounding view of the Mountains of Mourne. The most notable of holes on the front may well be the 9th, a stunning par-4 where players launch their tee shot from an elevated box, across a gorge, onto a fairway that lies 60 feet below the teeing area. Landing in the short grass here is only half the battle on this 427-yard test — your approach into the elevated green is also one where composure is of the utmost importance as you seek par. With the Slieve Donard Resort and Spa in the background, this is a photo op you don’t want to miss.
While The Rain Was Pouring Down, and Wind Howling When This Photo Was Taken, The View From The Ninth Tee Box, With The Mountains Of Mourne And The Slieve Donnard Resort Providing The Backdrop, One Could Easily Forget The Irish Weather And Simply Relish In The Golfing Experience. (Photo/Gord Montgomery)
Playing this course is challenge enough, but we played it in a driving rainstorm that, according to my caddie for the day, Andy Kidd,“was a true taste of Irish golf.” The dunes here are imposing, as is the rough, and if you amble away from the landing areas you’re going to pay a price — sometimes in lost balls, other times in unbelievably sore leg muscles the next day. And a word of advice — if you hit a ball into the gorse, leave it in the gorse. That stuff is nasty!
Over its decades of existence, Royal County Downs has hosted any number of high-end tourneys, beginning in 1893 when the second Irish Open Amateur Championship and continuing on from there. And if you’re wondering how hard a course like this can be, remember that Rory McIlroy once took a ’10’ on the par 3, 144-yard 7th hole in the Irish Open and missed the cut. I think I did him one better though, losing two balls in the tangle of gorse below the teeing ground, after trying to keep my shot low into the gusting wind!
A word of advice here: Make absolutely sure you play the right tees at Royal County Down. We played the Yellow Blocks at 6,600-plus yards and given the sideways rain and 40mph winds, that proved to be a bit much. Well, a lot much!
Even so, this is a great way to experience links golf on a great layout, and this round served to whet our appetite for what lay ahead, despite what the scorecards read at the end of the day.
Bedding Down
While Royal County Down does’t partner up with the hotel right in its backyard, there’s no doubt you’ll want to experience the hospitality and comfort of the Slieve Donard Resort and Spa. This is a beautiful facility with rooms far larger than one expects in Europe and it includes all the amenities one could ever hope for, no matter what part of the world you’re in.
The Warmth And Hospitality At One Of Northern Ireland's Top Hotels, The Slieve Donnard Resort And Spa, Was Second To None. (Photo/Gord Montgomery)
This home to luxury holds 180 rooms, including 100 new Executive and Resort rooms and six magnificent suites, many of which have stunning panoramic views over the Mountains of Mourne and the County Down coastline. All the rooms are finished in tasteful, traditional styles with every modern comfort. Add this to the spa facilities and proximity to one of the world’s finest golf courses and you have a holiday destination capable of proudly taking stage with the world’s best resorts.
Each room consists of a huge bathroom, complete with a soaker tub and separate shower and thick, fluffy towels. As for the main room, there is a comfortable conversation area with a sofa and chairs which provides wonderful views of the garden area and Royal County Down GC, or spectacular seascape vistas. The beds are second to none meaning you awake each day feeling refreshed and ready to head out on yet another Irish adventure, be it golf, hiking, or simply sightseeing in the pretty little seaside town of Newcastle..
The Spa at Slieve Donard plays second fiddle to none. It is situated over two floors, with stunning views across the Irish Sea and the Mourne Mountains and includes a 20 metre swimming pool as well as what’s known as a vitality pool. There are also a range of heat experiences and a high tech fitness studio.
At the Slieve Donard Resort and Spa the food experiences focus on using the finest fresh local seasonal produce to create an array of delicious menus. Breakfast, dinner, Afternoon Tea and Sunday Lunch are served in the famous Oak Restaurant, with its charming beams and fabulous central fireplace. The hotel boasts an extensive range of dining and socializing options including, Chaplin’s Bar and the Lighthouse Lounge.
Needless to say, after a day of walking one of the two golf courses, shopping in town, or hiking in the nearby mountains, the Slieve Donard Resort and Spa is a great choice to spend the night, recharging your inner battery for the next day’s Northern Ireland adventure.
In Part 2 of his Irish Adventure, writer Gord Montgomery heads to three more phenomenal links golf courses including Ardglass, Royal Portrush and Portstewart, plus he sets up camp in the fantastic Bushmills Inn, voted as one of the Top 25 Hotels in the UK in both 2016 and 2017.
About the Writer
Gord Montgomery is a retired sports editor of two weekly newspapers in the Edmonton area and is a member of the Golf Journalists Association of Canada. He is now in his 10th year of writing for Inside Golf.
He can be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. He’s also on Twitter at @gordinsidegolf and on Instagram at gordinsidegolf2.